Sushi Master Katsu Nakaji and his legacy from Tokyo to Milan
di Gaia Soleri
| Storie e Interviste | Del 31/08/2025 |
Katsu Nakaji: the shokunin who brings the soul of Edomae sushi from Tokyo to Milan. With the legacy of Hatsunezushi, his family’s historic restaurant in Tokyo, Nakaji embodies a lifelong devotion to the art of sushi. In Milan, through his new venture Hatsune Ronin, he offers not only an authentic omakase experience, but also a rare immersion into Japanese culture. Guiding his best apprentices with discipline, the Master opens a window onto centuries of tradition—where every nigiri becomes a lesson in precision, respect, and trust.
Interview with shokunin Katsu Nakaji, owner at Hatsunezushi in Tokyo and chef at Hatsune Ronin in Milan
What is your omakase menu like at Hatsunezushi?
My menu follows the edomae sushi style, prepared daily with the freshest seasonal ingredients. At Hatsunezushi, we offer a variety of shellfish and fish, with a special focus on tuna cuts: maguro, akami, chutoro, otoro. My restaurant carries on a tradition of 130 years, while the history of sushi itself goes back more than three thousand years. We take pride in continuing this heritage, working with fresh fish and fermentation, adapting to the new conditions of today’s fish.
Is your approach to omakase in Milan different from that in Tokyo?
First, I want to emphasize a crucial point of continuity: in both cities, we pursue an educational project that gives young chefs the opportunity to express their culinary artistry. The major difference between Milan and Tokyo lies in the ingredients, so not everything can be replicated. However, at Hatsune Ronin Milan, we are always able to offer an authentic omakase journey, reinterpreting the traditional edomae menu of Hatsunezushi. For me, it is essential to pass on the history of sushi to every guest.
From Tokyo to Milan, did you have to give up any precious ingredient for your omakase?
While I am still exploring Italian and European products, I can say that the variety of shellfish we have in Japan is not comparable to what is available in Italy.
What is your favorite season?
From a culinary perspective, autumn. I love roasted chestnuts and the street stalls that sell them. It is also the best season for fish: in autumn, hamachi (yellowtail) becomes rich in fat, and tai (sea bream) acquires more flavor because it feeds on small crustaceans. Autumn is a season of transformation, when fish change color and size.
Bluefin tuna is considered the king of sushi. Is it truly irreplaceable?
The uniqueness of tuna lies in the quality of its flesh: thanks to its large size, it provides exquisite cuts with different levels of fattiness and texture. That said, tuna belongs to the mackerel family (which also includes bonito), so there are similar fish that could, in principle, replace it. The key remains seasonality, in order to select the best fish products available.
What is the ideal temperature for serving sushi fish?
Many people still imagine sushi fish as fresh and cold from the refrigerator. In truth, the best way to appreciate it is at room temperature: a piece of sushi (like nigiri) should be held in the mouth for a few seconds to savor it fully. Thermal variation can elevate the quality of the fish—just as green bananas ripen at room temperature and reveal the ideal moment for consumption.
Freshness alone does not guarantee quality: fish, like humans, experience stress. It is up to us sushi artisans to enhance their quality, altering conditions with our techniques (for example, aging), in order to serve the fish at its optimal point. With a simple menu, we guide guests through the discovery of sushi tradition.
What role do vegetables play in sushi?
At Hatsunezushi, I offer two menus: EARTH and SEA. The vegetable element is less central in sushi, but seasonality remains the key word for vegetables, just as it is for fish. In Japan during spring, we use bamboo shoots; in Milan, we serve lotus root with gari (pickled ginger). At my restaurant in Tokyo, we make sure to have fresh flowers displayed: twice a week, we place them in our dining rooms to relax guests’ eyes. Interestingly, according to our belief, when a flower withers, it means it has absorbed the negative energies of the room and must be discarded. In Japan, flowers also have this beneficial function.
What is your mission with Hatsune Ronin in Milan?
Beyond offering an authentic omakase experience in Italy, our first mission is to use local ingredients to highlight the quality of Italian and European products. We also aim to transmit the tradition of sushi, being aware that two hours are not enough to fully grasp Japanese culinary culture. To reach the goal, we need to overcome the language barrier; in fact, my selected apprentices are studying Italian to communicate better with guests. In this first year, the support of a bilingual host has been fundamental, explaining in detail each morsel and the origin of the fish.
How important is the cultural aspect of sushi?
Extremely important. Technique is learnt from the Master, while the traditional culture of sushi must be explored individually. I always advise my apprentices to listen at night to podcasts in the old Tokyo dialect to better understand the ancient roots of sushi. In Japan, as in Italy, there are many dialects: a sushi Master must know the dialect of his cuisine - whether from Tokyo or Kyoto. Likewise, I believe a true pizza artisan should know how to speak the Neapolitan dialect. This is a sign of the chef’s passion and also expresses the will to welcome guests, making them feel at home.
How do you pass on your legacy to your disciples?
I have nothing to hide; on the contrary, I want to share as much as possible with others. My wife’s motto was, “Every day is like a lifetime—we are born in the morning, and we finish at night.” I live my days at my best and try to make guests feel good. This is the example and lesson I convey to my disciples. As a mentor, I like proposing tailor-made challenges to my apprentices to bring out their qualities and encourage them to grow and live intensely with their maximum effort. It is like learning to swim: I push them out of their comfort zone, so they can resurface stronger and more aware.
What kind of mentor do you strive to be?
In Japanese, the word for Master is oyakata, which contains the root oya, meaning “parent.” This reveals the true meaning of mentor, like a father in the professional sense. I like teaching my apprentices everything I can in a short time. I encourage them to observe me as I work—not to replicate my gestures, but to take inspiration from my example and create their own art of sushi. To do so, one needs personality, creativity, and the ability to adapt to past, present, and future.
Time plays a key role in life and in sushi: how many years does it take to become a chef who knows the right moment for everything?
That is a difficult question. It depends on the person and perspective. I myself do not believe I have reached the perfection of the “right moment.” I am deeply in love with my world, which I consider a form of art, like music or painting. Let me offer a simple comparison: just as we watch bananas ripen in two, three, or more days, so we see apprentices grow and achieve results in three, five, or ten years, depending on their dedication.
From Tokyo to Milan, Nakaji’s words trace the path of a life dedicated to the art of sushi, crafting the perfect nigiri piece and spreading the rich Japanese culture. His reflections reveal how time, respect for ingredients, and mentorship shape an art that goes beyond the plate. For those seeking an authentic sushi omakase in Milan, Hatsune Ronin is the right place where a morsel is not just food, but it becomes a lesson in Japanese culinary tradition, patience, and devotion.
For this interview, I would like to thank Yuto Ogihara, who faithfully translated into Italian the thoughts of Master Katsu Nakaji.
Finally, I would like to point out the release of a documentary on the life and career of chef Nakaji, directed by Travis Matsumoto (Outcrop, Japan), scheduled for next year.